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G. L. JENCKS. Sewing Machine.

Patented Feb; 18, 1868.

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GEORGE l1. JENCKS, OF FLORENCE, MASSACHUSEFS, ASSlGNOR TO THE FLORENCE$EWING-MACHINE COMPANY.

Letters Patent No. 74,694, dated February 18, 1868.

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TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

Be it known that I, GEQRGE L. JENCKS, of Florence, in the county ofNorthampton, and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain ncwanduseful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare that thefollowing is a fuli and exact description of the same, reference beingbad to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification, inwhich Figure 1 is a side elevation and section of the sewing-machinewhich embodies my said improvements. Figures 2, 3, and 4 are details ofthe needle-holding parts of the needle-arm, hereinafter mentioned.Figure 5 is a face view of the cams that operate the sewing parts, alsohereinafter mentioned. Figure 6 is a plan and section of the saidsewing-machine, with the needle-arm and the resser-arm broken away, andthe plate orcoverbver the sewing parts removed, to afford anunobstructed view of the said parts. Figure 7 is a face view of thetension-dcvice and take-up device, hereinafter mentioned, detached.Figure 8 is a section of the hubs of the said needle-arm and theresser-arm, showing the mode of hanging the same, hereinafter described,

Figure 9, No. 1, is a perspective view of the circular shuttle, No. 2 isa plan, and No. 3 a section, vertically, of the same.

Figure 10 is a plan and a vertical section of the bobbin that operatesin said shuttle. Figure 11, No. 1, is a plan of the clothdiridge andbridge-ring detached; No. 2 is a section, vertically, 'of the same; andNo. 3 is a plan of the said bridge, detached from the said ring.

Figure 12, No. 1, is a plan of the semi-rotating interlacing-hook,hereinafter mentioned,-and No. 2 is a vertical section of the said hookand its stem.

Figure 13, No. 1, is a plan, and N5. 2 is a perspective view of thepedestal or shuttle-holder, as hereinafter described.

All the parts as exhibited in the drawings are of the full working size,and similar letters and numbers marked thereon denote like parts in allthe figures.

My said invention pertains more particularly to that classofscwing-machines in which the stitch is formed with two interlockingthreads, by means of an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle, and aninterlocking hook, and

in which the shuttle is held in one position, while the loop ofneedle-thread is carried around itby the said hook, in contradistinctionwith shooting a flying shuttle through the said loop, for the purpose ofinterlocking the two threads to form the stitch, and is calculated toovercome certain diiiiculties, which I will mention.

In the mode described and as hitherto practised, of interlocking theneedle-thread with the shuttle-thread, by means of the interlacingdiook,the loop of needle-tl1rcad, after being carried around the shuttle, iscast of by the hook, and held by a pad, so called, at a certainposition, until the said hook, by its succeeding movement, catches thesucceeding loop of needle-thread, and by the continuation of saidmovement, which carries the last loop around the shuttle, it takes upthe first loop,and draws it into a stitch against the cloth. By thismethod of taking up the precedingloop of needle-thread by the same meansand movement which carry the succeeding loop around the shuttle, twoconsecutive movements of the book are required to form such stitch; or,in other words, the stitch, instead of being completed by one cycle ofoperations of the machine, islei't incomplete in the form of a loop thatis held by the said pad, and is only completed bya repetition of thebook's movement during the succeeding cycle of operations, so that at acertain stage of the operation these two incomplete loops ofneedle-thread, one that is held by the said pad, and one other in thecustody of't'he hook, by the joint action of which two instruments thatloop, held by the pad, is made to form a stitch; and if eitherthe padfails to hold the first loop during the proper interval for the hook tocatch and carry the succeeding loop around the shuttle, the stitch isleft unfinished, andthe hook, by its subsequent movement, is liable tocatch and wrest the first loop from the custodyof the pad, andsubsequently to catch the succeeding loop of needle-thread, and carryboth around the shuttle, and by so doing entangle-the thread beneath thecloth, and stop the operation of the machine; and it will appear,therefore, that the pad performs an important function in the formationof the stitch, and z'il so that the tension of thetwo threads must benicely adjusted with refer. ence to the joint action of the pad and thehook, to avoid the occurrence of these diliiculties. I

By my said invention, however, I have so combined the joint operationsof the hook and shuttle and the needle, as to insure the greatestcertainty of catching and carrying thcloop of needle-thread around theshuttle, and I have, by dispensing with thc said pad, or an equivalent,altogether, and combining with the said sewing parts an independenttake-up mechanism, been enabled to form the loop and complete eachstitch in one and the same cycle of operations of the machine, withoutdepending upon a succeeding operation.

The first part of my invention, therefore, relates to the mode ofcombining the hook and shuttle with the eye-pointed needle, and consistsin arranging the hook to rotate horizontally next to the inner curvatureof the needle which vibrates vertically at right angles to the plane ofthe said hook, through the cloth, so that the loop which is formed inthe bend of the needlewill, by reason of the said curvature or shape ofthe needle, be held apart therefrom and across the track of the rotatinghook, when it will be surely caught by the hook and carried around theshuttle, which is also arranged horizontally above the said hook, withits thread-delivery next to the needle. i

The second part of my invention relates to the means employed tocomplcteeach' stitch in succession, and before the formation of a subsequentloop of needle-thread within one cycle of operations of the machine,andconsists in combining with the hook and shuttle and eye-pointedneedle, arranged substantially as described, an independent take-upmechanism for taking up the loop of needle-thread after it is carriedaround theshuttle and'cast off the hook, and during the intervalof timeoccupied bythe return of the hook tothe position whence it started tocatch said loop.

- The third part of myinvention relates to the means employed to take upthe slackncss of the loop of needlethread,'as described, in combinationwith the sewing mechanism constructed and operating as herein described,and consists of a plain'stud or rod, in a revolving faceplate, arranged(if convenient) on the driving-shaft, and between the device employed toregulate the tension of the needle-thread, and a guide-eye, from whichthe thread passes to the needle, so that when the needle-thread wouldbecome slack from passing from around the shuttle, the said stud, byrevolving against the thread between the two points of confinementabovementioned, will form a loop by the thread passing around it, and by sodoing draw the thread through the necdles eye and the intermediateguides suficiently to produce the stitch in the cloth. I

The fourth part of my invention relates tothe mode of constructing theshuttle and its appendages, which carries and delivers theshuttle-thread, and consists in making the said shuttle in a circular orelliptical form, and with a bevelled edge to facilitate the passage ofthe same through the loop of needle-thread, and with a circular recess,that is concentric with the bevelled edge, for the reception of the saidbobbin, and in combination with such shuttle, a notch in the bevellededge for the delivery of the thread from the bobbin, and a springpresseron the bevelled edge, formed with a delivery-eye at its free end, and ina position at'one side of the notch in the bevelled edge for the purposeof producing the requisite tension of the shuttle-thread as it isdelivered.

The fifth part of myinvention relates to the mode of holding andcontrolling the action of the said shuttle, and consists in holding orsupporting the shuttle upon a stationary plate or pedestal within thecircle that is traversed by the rotating interlacing-hook, and justabove the latter, for the purpose of holding the shuttle in oneposition, with its thread-delivery next to the needle, and inmaintaining said shuttle in its central position against the face of theloop of'needle-tl1road, in passing around the extreme point of itsdiameter, by means of a tilting-bar, or its equivalent, with a conicalprotuberance or centre near its end, which enters the female centre inthe middle of the shuttle, when the bar, which is pivoted to one side ofthe shuttle-frame, is tilted down .by suitable means applied to theopposite end, for the purpose of holding the shuttle down in its place,as specified, during the passage of the loop of nccdle thread around theshuttle, and except when the bar is required to lift from contact withthe shuttle, and permit the loop to-pass and be drawn up to form thestitch.

My invention also fdrther relates to the mode of hanging and adjustingthe needle-arm and the presscrarm, so called, and to the constructionand arrangemcntof the cloth-bridge and its appendages with theaforementioned sewing parts, and to the mode of securing the needle tothe needle-arm, all which is hereinafter more particularly described. I

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my said invention, Iwill proceed to describe the same.

In the said; drawings, F is the cast-iron framework or bed, on which theseveral devices constituting my improved machine are arranged, andmotion is communicated to the several parts from the driving-shaft B,figs. 1 and 6, extending lengthwise through the centre of the frame, anddriven by a band passing over the groovepulley X at the rear. N is theneedle arm, carrying the curved eye-pointed needle n at'its free end,and P is the resser-arm, carrying the presser Q at its free end, both ofsaid arms being pivoted at H to the frame, in a manner more particularlydescribed hereafter, the needle-arm N receiving a vibrating movementvertically by means of an eccentric, A, figs. 1, 6, and 7, on the shaft13. connected, by its strap A, in a ball-and-socketjoint to the end ofthe short arm that extends from the hub of tho needle-arm. T is thedevice which regulates the tension of the needle-thread, and e e e arethe guide-eyes, through which the thread is conducted to the eye of theneedle 71. f is the feed-bar, which is arranged to feed the cloth ineither direction tothc needle. This feed-bar is operated by thereversible rocker-arm 18, in the curved groove'of which a stud on theswinging arm C is made to communicate motion to the feed-bar, suchmotion being derived from the eccentric, 20, figs. 1, 6, and 5, andimparted to the rocker-shaft through the strap 21 and its curved rod,and suitable connections 22, and the arm 23 on the lower end of saidrocker-shaft.

All the parts thus far mentioned are common and well known to those whoare acquainted with sewingmachinery, and, except what may be sospecified to the contrary hereafter, form no part of my said'invention.

I The sewing parts and their peculiar arrangement, which constitute thefirst part of my invention, are exhibited in figs. 1, 6, 9, 10, 12, and13, in which on is the interlacing-hook, on a hollow vertical stem, 13,having a suitable bearing, in which the stem rotates, in the framework1), by means ofithe pinion-gear S on the stem, and a rack, R, meshingwith said pinion, and sliding in the said frame by motion communicatedthrough the connection bfrom the crank-pin g on the end of thedriving-shaft B,'whereby sufiicicnt movement is obtained to impart, bymeans of the said rack and pinion, about seven-eighths of a revolutionto the interlacing-hook in aforward direction, and to return the sameduring one complete revolution of the drivingshaft B.

The arrangement of the hook and shuttle with the curved eye-pointedneedle is shown in figs. 1 and G, the needle n beingheld in its arm in asimilar position to that of curved needles in other machines, the eye ofthe needle, however, opening from the front of the machine, or in thedirection of the length of the needle-arm, instead of laterally orcrosswise, as when the hook and shuttle are arranged on' one side'of thesaid needle, and the hook 722 and shuttle I), are arranged horizontallywith the movement of the needle 12 next to it, and at the rcariof theneedle, the axis of the hook and shuttle being directly opposite theneedle in a radial line with the hxis of the needle-arm, so that theloop of thread whi'ch forms in the inner curvature or side of the needleon which said hook operates has a tendency to stand out and apart fromthe needle, in consequence of the needles concavity on this side, and byarranging and operating the hook with the said concavity of theneedle,the loop of needle-thread is more certain of being caught by the actionof the hook, and its operation and subsequent operations dependingthereon are rendered more nearly positive than heretofore. The hook onrotates on its stem 13 in vertical bearings formed in the frame D fromthe position, with reference to the needle n, as shown in fig. 12, pastthe needle, from which it catches the loop of needle-thread presented toit on the inner curve of the needle, asseen in fig. 1, which it carriesaround the shuttle to the position shown by red lines, fig. 1, and untilit has reached the point marked c, fig. 12, when the loop ofncedlethi'cad is cast off, and the hook returns preparatory to repeatingits said movement of catching the succeeding loop, during which time ofretiirning, the cast-elf loop is taken up and drawn with the requisitetension into the cloth by means of a separate and independent mechanism,which drawsthe thread quickly through the necdles eye when the loop iscast off, and thus completes the stitch during one cycle of operationsof the machine.

The said mechanism for taking up the loop of needle-thread to completethe stitch is shown in figs. 1, (l, and 7, in which the thread K isshown passing from the spool through the guide-eyes, and aroundthe-frictionbobbin T of the tension-mechanism, thence under and aroundthe stud V in the face of the driving-pulley X, and through theguide-cye e on the opposite arm of the stand 0 from the tension-device,through the guides e e on the needle-arm to the point of the needle inthe usual way. By means of this arrangement of parts, when the loop iscast off, the needle has lifted out of the cloth, and the stud V, whichis to take up the loop, is in the position shown by dotted lines in fig.7, and in full lines, fig. 1, and, by continuing the movement of themachine, the stud V is carried round to the position shown in full linesin fig. 7, drawing the thread around it in the form of a loop, andthereby taking up-the slackness created by the passage of a loop of thethread around the shuttle, as described.

The shuttle and its appendages for producing tension for carrying anddelivering the under or shuttlethread are constructed, as shown in fig.9, in the form of a circular piece, with a bevelled edge, n, andacireular recess in the upper face for the reception of the bobbin E,fig. 10, which turns on the hollow centre-pin d of the shuttle. Theshuttles edge is bevelled inward or towards its centre from the bottomor underside upon which it rests, for the purpose of enabling theuppermost of two threads of the loop, when it meets the edge of theshuttle in being carried around it, as before cxplaincthto pass upwardover the shuttle, while the under or other thread of the loop is carriedin adirect line from 'the position of the needles eye, when it is-caughttherefrom beneath the shuttle; this bevelled edge of the shuttle, and asimilar edge on the hook-disk, considering the arrangement of the sewingparts, greatly facilitating the proper disposition of the loop ofneedlethread around the shuttle, and the final completion of the stitchin the period of time allotted therefor. The thread passes from thebobbin in the shuttle through a small notch, t, cut in the bevellededge, as shown clearly in fig. 9, No. 1, and the tension of this threadis regulated as it is delivered by means of the slight spring-presser s,one end of which is riveted to the outer surface of the bevelled edge,and the free end of said spring extends over and past the delivery-notcht, and is provided with asimilar notch or delivery-guide, from which thethreadpasses immediately to the cloth. By this arrangement of aspring-presser and delivery-notcl1 in the shuttle, the thread is made todeviate from its direct course, and two bights or turns are formed inthe thread, which produces a tension which is tempered and regulated bythe yielding action of the free end of the spring, from which the threadis finally delivered.

The said shuttle is held, and its action controlled to a certain extentby means of the stationary disk: or pedestal G, on which it rests, andthe tilting-bar or finger l, which keeps it .in its central position.This pedestal consists of a circular plate, with a long stem,j,extending from its centre onone side, which is inserted and held withinthe stem of the interlacing-hook, beneath which is arranged a squaresocket in the plate V fig. 1, into which the squared end of thepedestal-stem j is fitted, and by that means kept from contact andprevented from turning by the movements of the hook. The tilting-bar offinger Zis pivoted near its middle to one side of the circular part ofthe framework that surrounds the shuttle andhook, and it extends in onedirection with its end over the centre-pin of the shuttle, which is madehollow to receive a small conical protuberance or centre, 1, on theunder side of this end of said her. The opposite end of this bar orfinger is'weighted or made heavier, and rests on the cam J, on thedriving-shalt, by the revolution of which this end of the bar is liftedand the opposite end depressed, so that the protuberance 1' will enterthe centre of the shuttle and hold it in its place in the centre of thehook, and from being carried against the n eedlc while the loop is beingcarried around it, and also prevents the shuttlefrom lifting from thepedestal, and by so doing prevent the uppermost thread of the loop frompassing under it, (the shuttle.) After the loop has been carriedpartlyaround the shuttle, the protuberance r is permitted to rise from theshuttle, so that the thread over the shuttle may pass by theprotuberance entirely over the shuttle, and be taken up, as beforeexplained. If the weight of the end of the tilting-bar should proveinsufficient to'insure its prompt action, when the machine is operatedwith rapidity, or from other causes, a slight spring, to, may beinterposed between the bar and the side of the framework, as shown at winifig. 1, so as to lift the protuberance from the shuttle as quickly asmay be necessary.

The construction and arrangement of the cloth-bridge which supports thecloth beneath the needle, and

and thence it passes was; 4

the parts which are immediately connected therewith for the adaptationof the action of the needle to the formation of the stitch, by thearrangement of the shuttle and interlacing-hook therewith, as abovedescribed, have been mentioned as forming part of my said invention. Thesaid cloth-bridge and the parts alluded to are shown separately in fig.11, and in connection with the sewingparts in figs. 1 and G. In fig. 11the cloth-bridge K may be formed in a separate piece, or it may beformed of the same piece as the bridge-ring U, to which it is otherwiseattached by means of two dowel-pins, do, in the bridge, which enter twoholes in the ring, the bridge alone, or the bridge and ring, requiringto be removable for the substitution of other bridges adapted todifl'erent sizes of needles. Beneath the cloth-bridge, in the ring, isformed a vertical recess or needle-way, c, in which the needle vibrates,to form the loop, and present it in the proper position to be caught bythe interlacing-hook. This bridge-ring is confined in thecireularportion of the framework, which holds the hook and shuttle. Andwhen the needle passes through the cloth into the recess in thebridge-ring, and carries the loop of needle-thread, the interlacing-hookcatches the loop just above the needlcs eye, and trails the lowermostthread of the loop, which is delivered from said eye against and aroundthe lower corner or edge of the recess or needle-way in the ring, andthence in a-direet line beneath the shuttle, while the uppermost threadof the loop passes over the shuttle, in the manner before explained; thearrangement of the recess or needleway in the bridge-ring, with theneedle, and the hook and shuttle, contributing to the proper formationof the stitch.

The mode of hanging and adjusting the needle-arm and the presser-arm,above alluded to as forming part of my said invention, is shown clearlyin fig. 8 of the drawings, and consists in forming the said arms with abroad, fiat, circular hub, 2:, around their axis, and confined onopposite sides of a stout rib, F, on the rear end of the frame, by meansof a tapering screw stud, P, passing through the hub of the needle-arm,and-screwed into the said rib, and a screw-sleeve, R, passing throughthe hub of the prcsser-arm, and screwing on theend of the stud P withits (the sleeves) end bearing against that side of the said rib, so thatby screwing up the said stud the needle-arm will be tightened in itsbearing, and by screwing up the sleeve the presser-arm will be tightenedin the bearing, and also that the sleeve will bind the stud betwceri thethreads of the stud and the rib, and so check and prevent the accidentalunscrewing of either part. I p

The improved mode of securing the needle 7t in the end of the needle-armN, is shown in figs. 2, and 4. The needle is held in a groove, formed inone side of the end of the needle-arm, by means of a screw-bolt, y, witha convexity under the head, and washer a, formed with a concavity uponone side, to fit the under side of the said bolt-head, so that thewasher may incline or tip to one side, and at the same time fit nicelyagainst the I under side of the bolt-head, when it is screwed againstthe needle in the groove of the-arm which is on one side of the bolt, bywhich arrangement the needle is the more readily placed and adjusted inthe end of the arm, and griped more firmly than by means of theneedle-yol e, so called, heretofore.generally used.

Having now described the nature of these several improvements, and themanner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood thatwhat I claim, and desire to have secured to me by Letters Patent,is-- 1. The manner of combining and arranging both the interlacing-hookand shuttle, constructed as described, upon the concave side of thecurved needle, so that the loop of the needle-thread will be presentedto the hook and shuttle from the curved side of the needle, and carriedthence directly to the rear of the needle, and around the shuttle,substantially as shown and described.

2. I claim so combining and arranging the said hook and shuttle, and theeye-pointed needle, as described, with the independent mechanism setforth for taking uptheloop of the needle-thread after it has beencarried around the shuttle, as described, that the said loop may betaken up and the stitch completed at one and the same cycle of operationof the machine, substantially as described.

3. I claim the take-up mechanism, substantially as described, incombination with the se wing-meehani sm, constructed and operatingsubstantially as set forth. V v

4. I claim the circular shuttle, constructed substantially as described,with a bevelled edge, and in combination therewith a delivery-notch anda spring presscr, arranged substantially as described, for the purposeof producing the requisite tension of the shuttle-thread as it isdelivered, substantially as described.

i 5,. I claim mounting or holding the shuttle upon a stationary pedestalor its equivalent, as described, and controlling the operation of theshuttle by'means of a. tilting-bar or finger, or its equivalent,arranged to operate therewith, substantially as and for the purposespecified.

6. I claim the interlacing-hook, in combination with the bevelled-edgedshuttle, constructed and operating as described, to catch and carry theloop of needle-thread around said shuttle, substantiallyin the mannerdescribed. V

7. claim so combining the recess a, in which the needle vibrates, andthe bridge-ring, and the interlacinghook, and shuttle, constructed andarranged substantially as described, that the lower thread of the loopwill be caught by the hook and carried in a direct line beneath theshuttle, while the upper thread of said loop is I carried against thebevelled shuttle-edge, and over the shuttle, substantially in the mannerand for the purpose specified. i I

8. I claim the construction and mode of hanging and adjusting theneedle-arm and the resser-arm, by means ofthe screw-stud andscrew-sleeve, in combination substantially as described.

9. I claim the mode of securing the needle 72-, at the end of theneedle-arm, by means of the screw-bolt and washer, constructedsubstantially as describcd.

GEORGE L. JENOKS.

Witnesses:

Isaac A. BaowNaLL, Jenn W. Home.

